Since it takes some time to get here (about two hours by car or bus from Zagreb), the most sensible plan is to spend the night in the area either at one of the park's hotels, or at a guest house nearby. So, I remember I had to wear black things because of snipers watch us all the time, 24 hours. The national parliament building flies both the Croatian and European flags. Across town, twice as high as the tallest minaret, towers the Croats' Catholic church spire. Salesman: White truffle, yes, yes. The town's charms are all within a few steps. Roman emperors called themselves the gods. For a latte, it's bijela kava. That was Marshal Tito, who ruled Yugoslavia. And a mountaintop castle guarding the pass suggests that this has long been a point where different cultures merge. It's embodied in a skyline of minarets and in the five-times-daily call to prayer. Like the mosques, this new church is busy serving the faithful in its community. There's no question that this region has a long history of groups not getting along with each other, lots of warfare. Hvala! Rick: That marble column didn't last very long. Still, both religious communities seem determined to build upon this fragile reconciliation. Generali, shown here in a self-portrait, was the father of the Croatian Naive Art movement. After a little island-hopping, approaching urban Split Croatia's "second city" feels like a return to civilization. When Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, its Serb minority about 10 percent of the population was concerned about its rights. Covering the best of the former Yugoslavia, we dedicate episodes to Slovenia and Croatia, then venture This time we're trying to figure out how to eat the scampi in Croatia. Exploring corners of Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia, we'll get to know the three major groups of former Yugoslavia: Croats, Serbs, and Muslims. Warning: The walls can get deliriously hot all that white stone and seawater reflect blazing sunshine something fierce, and there's virtually no shade. Alma: Yes. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. Fragments of the palace are poorly marked, and there are no good guidebooks or audioguides for understanding the remains. When it was part of Yugoslavia, as in centuries past, Mostar was a place where cultures mingled where Catholic Croats, Orthodox Serbs, and Muslim Bosniaks lived together in relative harmony. On one easy floor, the museum displays 80 paintings made mostly by Croatians from the 1930s to the 1980s. The sea of Croatian humanity laps at the walls of Diocletian's Palace along the pedestrian promenade, or "Riva." We're setting sail again. Pero: Thank you very much. And the pebbly beaches with crystal-clear water are both pristine and inviting. While its ethnic make-up shaped its recent history, the differences between its groups can be subtle and confusing. Yet the more I observed, the more it seemed essentially the same. If you want to enjoy the Croatian caf scene, it helps to know a few words. In the 1990s, Bosnia was ripped apart by a three-way war between these groups. Grab a cushion and settle into a cozy stone nook. They painted in a figurative way, while the rest of the artistic world embraced, increasingly, an abstract style. Thanks for joining us. The 11 half-hour episodes in this season of Rick Steves' Europe include four on Spain, three on the former Yugoslavia, and four covering Nordic Europe. That's white coffee. Dubrovnik is very touristy, and understandably so. You know, we are Muslim, and that was our flat here we lived here all the time when war start. Saleswoman: Orah, yes. Zagreb's historic upper town blankets a hill. Let's hear it for our flower grip. After Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, the Yugoslav National Army laid siege to this town and lobbed mortars from the hilltop above. Very young people. think 16 LIFE 11/06 20:00: A fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe, Croatia is emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. We had to come here and bury people actually we have to, transform park into a cemetery. Rovinj's vibrant market is a fun place to shop for a picnic and snack on free samples. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted inbold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Until next time, keep on travelin'. While the drinks are extremely pricey, this place is unforgettably cool. It's a lush and unforgettable valley of 16 terraced lakes, laced together by waterfalls and miles of pleasant plank walks. Nothing looks right without some wildflowers held by Cameron Hewitt. They tease and they tease, asking for more moneyand more moneyand more money. Sicily serves up a full-bodied and tasty travel experience. Roman engineers could build anything. Rick: So: white truffle paste. People, young and old, passing through, stop here briefly to worship. Like most major towns along the Adriatic coastline, the fortified harbor of Hvar was a strategic link in a vast 16th-century Venetian trading empire. Or you can choose to sit on one of the terraces. You see a lot of winter scenes because these artists were farmers firstbusy tending their fields through the growing season. But in the war, we mustn't go to the cemetery because it was exposed too much to the snipers. We're leaving the Serbian Republic and entering the half of Bosnia shared by Muslims and Croats. Here in Bosnia, they had to actually create a semi-autonomous Serb state within the larger state of Bosnia to preserve that balance. "Rick Steves' Europe" Slovenia and Croatia (TV Episode 2000) cast and crew credits, including actors, actresses, directors, writers and more. Seeing them tonight, it's clear: They're looking forward to a bright and promising future. Before we get into Bosnia, let's review the big picture. The rocky soil and persistent sun are good for grapes. As always, travel humanizes a distant land. There's nothing like this lush valley of 16 terraced lakes, laced together by waterfalls, boat rides, and miles of pleasant plank walks. This embroidery was a labor of love created by a local woman. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Croatia and find out what to do on your next trip. Pero: Well, it was a very difficult time. It was like we back 500 years back. You can see some faces, some flowers. While the coast is Croatia's main draw, some of its best attractions are inland. That explains today's pleasantly claustrophobic Old Town. Thanks to new freeways, the Istrian Peninsula, in Croatia's northwest corner, is just a couple hours' drive from the capital. 1. Everything you need is here. The Croats' Catholic church, once shelled and now repaired, has a poignant memorial in its garden: Christ crucified on a cross of artillery shells. Sitting here, it's clear: Zagrebians love their city. Sampling the very best of Croatia, we start by exploring the fabled Dalmatian Coast from dramatic Dubrovnik to crusty Adriatic island ports. I would have thought it was a reprint from 10 years ago. These Croatian nave artists were outsiders sought out by art-world insiders to validate their notion that artistic ability was more than a learned skill it was an inborn talent. Dubrovnik's single best attraction is strolling the scenic mile-and-a-quarter around the city walls. In 1991, after Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, the Yugoslav army shelled the city, damaging about two-thirds of its buildings. Rick Steves' Europe is public television's most-watched, longest-running travel series. One of Europe's newest and smallest countries, it's about the size of Connecticut, with well under a million people. Lenni and Pero Modrini, both of whom are outgoing and speak good English, rent four apartments in a nicely renovated house right in the middle of the Old Town, a fifth apartment next door with two bedrooms and a sea view, and a small, budget double with a private bathroom across the hall. With its elegant, single pointed arch, the Old Bridge symbolized the town's status as the place where East meets West in Europe. And, to this day, the maze of narrow alleys once literally Diocletian's hallways makes up the core of Split. In the Old Town, narrow lanes come with an easygoing charm. You can see all the best scenery at Plitvice in just a three- to four-hour, mostly level hike. A legendary icon, which refused to budge from this spot, still caps the altar today. Confined within its walls as it has been for centuries, Dubrovnik juts out from the rocky Croatian coastline looking inviting from both the land and the sea. First, Croats and Bosniaks forced out the Serbs. So, I took some loans from the bank, and I decided to rent it, like a guesthouse. For 25 years she toiled, using the finest materials available: silk and her own hair. The town's history created its current shape: Medieval Rovinj was a walled island. [walnuts?] They treated him like a god on earth. Finally, they take the 75-foot plunge. Father Draen: Well, it brings life. Rate. Synopsis:A tour of Croatia, Bosnia and Montenegro, featuring the medieval fortress city of Dubrovnik in Croatia; the flourishing city of Mostar in Bosnia; and Montenegro's Bay of Kotor. In towns like Otoac bullet holes still mar facades. Expertly enjoying this town, seemingly made for relaxing, yachters stern-tie into the good life. Fish, attracted by its underwater lights, swim by from all over the bayto the enjoyment of those nursing a cocktail on the rocks (literally you'll be given a small seat cushion and plunk down in your own seaside niche). Rick: Dobar dan! Each lane contributes to the evocative medieval townscape, dripping with drying laundry and local character. We're visiting three of them: Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Herzegovina. The focal point is a painting of Mary that miraculously survived a fire in 1731. Observing this, it occurred to me that I've never met anyone from either community here who called the war anything but a tragic mistake. 2. Thanks for joining us. It's Croatia. These roofs were rebuilt using the same materials as the original ones. 2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Exploring Croatia, we'll see the Pearl of the Adriatic, sample some island charm, wander Roman ruins, Just down the road is a thriving pedestrian zone Zagreb's main caf street and urban promenade. And balkanization, as you mentioned, is something that has to be slowly overcome. Boats, big and small, connect Dubrovnik to the rest of Croatia. Its central promenade is the heartbeat of the city a thriving people zone. In Montenegro, we sail the fjord-like Bay of Kotor and explore its mysterious, mountainous interior. A highlight for me is simply people watching. The places we're visiting were all part of the former Yugoslavia, which broke apart in the 1990s, splitting into seven countries. Its handy boat connections make this a popular stop. When Yugoslavia broke up into separate countries in the 1990s, Croatia wound up with most of its coastline. Rick: Nice; thank you. The conflict reached its peak with a symbolic moment that resonated around the world. Rick: Thank you! Locals, like tour guide Alma Elezovi, lived under siege during that frightening time. In 1953, he took his art to a show in Paris as a relative unknown. Patriotic symbols remind those driving where loyalties lie. Diocletian was notorious for persecuting Christians. Stroll the back lanes, where you may come upon a musical surprise. The Balkans that troubled southeastern corner of Europe is complex and relatively untouristed. RICK STEVES' EUROPE offers a fresh perspective on the best travel advice, including where to stay, what to see and how to get around in Europe. We see three local religions in action: Orthodox Christian, Roman Catholic, and Muslim. After Tito died in 1980, this very delicate balance he created started to topple; different groups started to grab for more power and authority, and before long, the whole thing just fell apart. You can't get a complete picture of modern Croatia without a visit here. 8. With the war in the past, the tourists are back. With its dramatic setting, it deserves its title: "Pearl of the Adriatic.". With Rick Steves. Maya: The palace was huge, 200 meters on each side, and these were just the basements, so you can imagine what was on the upper floor. Spectacularly set Dubrovnik is both historic and a hit with tourists. Alma: Exactly. From its prosperous capital of Ljubljana, we enjoy the mountain resort of Lake Bled, venture into the Julian Alps for natural thrills mixed with WWI history, go spelunking in a gigantic cave, and swim with Slavs in And so do romantics. And evenings in town are peaceful. Soon after the war, the Old Bridge was rebuilt using the original materials. Saleswoman: Odlino! Exploring the countryside, we find more reminders of the natural beauty and the humanity of this obscure corner of Europe. Rick Steves' Europe is an American travel documentary television series created and hosted by Rick Steves.In each episode, he travels to the continent of Europe, documenting his experiences along the way.. And in Bosnia, we visit Mostar war-torn in the '90s, but bursting with promise today. These 20-something Bosnians were toddlers during the war. And we, as a church, I think we have a specific role in reconciliation. Salesman: Thank you. For the most part, there's no way that a casual visitor can determine the religion or loyalties of the people just by looking at them. The Making of Rick Steves' Europe. Through clever diplomacy, Dubrovnik managed to maintain its independence until the 1800s. In peak season, the cellars are open late, and the cathedral sights generally close at 19:00 (in the off-season, the cathedral sights close around noon). For this program, we'll leave the crowds of Dubrovnik and explore the less-appreciated corners of Croatia. Nestled inside its mighty ramparts is Dubrovnik, the "Pearl of the Adriatic." Croatia is a fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe. A short drive to the coast takes us to Rovinj my favorite stop between Dubrovnik and Venice. Exploring Croatia, we'll see the Pearl of the Adriatic, sample some island charm, wander Roman ruins, and hike through a watery wonderland. All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. Plitvice is one of Europe's most spectacular natural wonders. Dubrovnik, Croatia - Video - Rick Steves' Europe Croatia is clearly coming into its own. Nearby is the Croatian Museum of Naive Art. Menu. It was a park, before war, where lovers gather, children gather, and sitting here have a nice time. Because this is Dubrovnik's top attraction, it's usually extremely crowded. Countless cascades and water that's strangely clear, yet full of vibrant colors, make Plitvice a misty natural wonderland. They stockpiled grain in huge underground silos and piped in water from nearby mountains. Filled with mellow tourists and bartenders pouring wine from tiny screw-top bottles into plastic cups, Bua II comes with castaway views and Frank Sinatra ambience. When the seats fill up as often happens around sunset you can order a drink at the bar and walk down the stairs to enjoy it on the rocksliterally. Even with all its crowds, as anywhere, back-street charm is just a few steps away. Sampling the very best of Croatia, we start by exploring the fabled Dalmatian Coast from dramatic Dubrovnik to crusty Adriatic island ports. The island's main town, also named Hvar, nestles under its formidable fortress. Tucked inside Zagreb's only surviving town gate is an evocative chapel. This is supposedly where Bill Gates hangs out when he visits Dubrovnik. 5. To show us the very best that this charming country has to offer, Rick Steves traveled around the Dalmatian Coast for Friday's episode of his travel guide show, "Rick Steves' Europe." Rick: And all of the dates1993. Hiring a guide is an excellent investment to help you understand Mostar. In Spain, episodes include Crdoba & Granada, Andaluca with Gibraltar and Tangier, Basque Country, and Galicia (northwest Spain, the Camino de Santiago, and the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona). While constructed over many centuries, today's impressive fortifications date from the 1400s, when they were beefed up to defend against the Ottoman Turks. You had all these different groups in this one territory. (There are actually two different Buas; Bua II is the older and bigger of the pair.) For coronavirus (COVID-19 Croatia is a fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe. Taking a little extra time to wander through town gives an insight into people moving on with their lives. When it comes to mealtime, here on the coast, it's gotta be seafood. And so, ironically, what Diocletian built to glorify his memory is used instead to remember his victims: Christian martyrslike this one, who was tied to a mill stone and tossed into the sea. Observant nature lovers can choose from hundreds of flower types to assemble a photographic bouquet. Every town has their all-male klapa choir. Slovenia and Croatia . Little Slovenia is the least visited and most underrated of Europe's alpine countries. Rate. The springboard for our Balkan adventure is Dubrovnik. This bar offers, without a doubt, Dubrovnik's most scenic spot for a drink. Diocletian's mausoleum dominated the center of the palace complex. To avoid crowds, get up early and hit the trails (ideally by 8:30); by early afternoon, you'll be ready to move on (south to the coast, or north to Zagreb). So this is what I find in my, on top of my house. We live on this street and die on this street. 2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | The Sponza Palace is a fine surviving example of Dubrovnik's Golden Age in the 15th and 16th centuries, combining both Renaissance and Venetian Gothic styles. Video: Watch Dubrovnik and Balkan Side-Trips, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. The main drag leading up to the top of the island is lined with art galleries. Today, as the new tiles are fading, so are the scars of that war. Dramatically situated high above the vineyards, Motovun is Istria's most popular hill town. Rick Steves Europe is public televisions most-watched, longest-running travel series. But as Christians, we would say our Christian Orthodox faith is also something that makes us Serbs. As disturbing as these reminders of war are, it is uplifting to be here, and to actually see how well the country's putting itself back together. And today, as they have for generations, young Mostarians jump from the bridge. The new Old Bridge was immediately embraced as a promising sign of reconciliation. Rick: Dobro? The 10 minarets, rebuilt since the war, once again pierce Mostar's skyline like Muslim exclamation points. And Diocletian called himself "Jovius," son of the god Jupiter. Being young and sexy is a great equalizer. Terms of Service | Privacy, Dubrovnik, Croatia: Pearl of the Adriatic, Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina: Rebuilt and Healing, Trebinje, Bosnia-Herzegovina: Charming Market Town, Trebinje, Bosnia-Herzegovina: Yugoslavian Diversity. This venerable bridge was pummeled by artillery shells from the hilltop above, until finally it collapsed into the river. A hole in the mighty wall leads to a great little bar called Bua just the place for a romantic sunset. Young and old, everyone's out embracing life. From Dubrovnik, at the southern tip of Croatia, we venture to Montenegro's Bay of Kotor before exploring the Serbian part of Bosnia, and finishing in Mostar. But solutions are emerging. 7. Written and hosted by best-selling guidebook author Rick Steves, each half-hour show takes viewers to Europe's most interesting places, from great cities to off-the-beaten-path discoveries. Rate. It also has a gifty corner where salesmen tempt visiting tourists with the local specialties. And we'll toss in a little fun in the sun too, here in Dubrovnik. We'll enjoy its thriving capital city, the Italian-like charm of Istria, and that peninsula's most enchanting port town. Its interior is rich with symbolism. This used to be the customs office, but now it's an exhaustive archive of the city's history, with temporary art exhibits and a war memorial. Activities are low energy. Medieval York and Georgian Bath pack an exciting pair of sightseeing punches. Our next stop: the capital city, Zagreb. We have St. John the Baptist, and here we have the baptismal font. 4. The "old road" little more than an overgrown donkey path was once the mountain kingdom's umbilical cord to the Adriatic. Its gate welcomes visitors into the Old Town and a main square busy with cafs. Rick: This is all part of Diocletian's palace complex? Rick: And this house? Why is that? Wherever you choose, you'll swim in the shadow of one of Europe's finest fortified medieval cities. The bay's main town, also called Kotor, has been protected from centuries of would-be invaders by its imposing wall. These songs of seafaring life, of loves lost and loves found, stir the souls of Croatians and visitors alike. Split's top activity is visiting the remains of Roman Emperor Diocletian's enormous retirement palace, sitting on the harbor in the heart of the city. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. When Rome fell, Diocletian's palace was abandoned. Later on during the history of the Middle Ages this was converted into the church, so this was the medieval baptistery. Throughout Croatia, sobe that's rooms for rent in private homes are a much better value than big hotels. Alma: Yes. Dubrovnik is "the Pearl of the Adriatic." See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. I'm Rick Steves. A tour of Croatia starts at the Dalmatian Coast and concludes at the port town of Rovinj on the Istrian Peninsula. An after dinner stroll with a sense of curiosity gets me a seat at the rehearsal of the local klapa group. We'll dine on fresh seafood at the fisherman's harbor in Cefal, ponder ancient Greek greatness in Siracusa, commune with monks alive and departed in a Capuchin crypt, sleep in an olive orchard at an agriturismo, and eat our way through a classic Sicilian banquet with a famous chef. After a splash of Adriatic resort life, we sail a Montenegrin fjord, and share the rewards of peace in Bosnia. And we have this curious panel here in the front. Salesman: Ciao! For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Istria is dotted with picturesque hill towns, striped with vineyards, and busy with hard-working farmers. While the war barely touched the coastline, here in the interior which had a sizable Serb minority the fighting was devastating. While the walls worked fine against the Turks five centuries ago, they couldn't protect the city from modern artillery. Bua means "hole in the wall" and that's exactly what you'll have to go through to get to this place. Rick: Very nice. He was a huge hit, sold everything, and came home rich and famous. [While] so many Dalmatian Coast towns feel tailor-made for tourism, Split is a serious port. Tucked among a clutter of nautical artifacts is a delicate treasure. Boats glide visitors into the heart of the park. Rick: Was your family OK? Its main square is home to Croatia's government. Maya: Yes, they had the technology and they had the slaves. Alma: This is a very special place for us. The people-friendly business zone comes with the energy and bustle you'd expect to find in any prosperous European capital. Scaling the church bell tower's creaky wooden stairway requires an enduring faith in the reliability of wood. Thanks for joining us. In the 17th century, locals built this Baroque church on this holy site and filled it with symbols of thanks for answered prayers. While newly painted, the medieval feel of the church is a reminder that the Eastern Orthodox faith steadfastly carries on the earliest traditions of Christianity in a modern world. During busy times, your best bet is to hit the walls around 8:00, or just before 17:00 (to avoid both the worst heat and the worst crowds). And as travelers are rediscovering its charms, it's emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. Leading up the hill from the Old Bridge is Coppersmiths' Street a lively shopping zone with the flavor of a Turkish bazaar: you'll find hammered-copper decorations, artists' galleries, and a local twist: old Yugoslav Army kitsch. And little girls love a visit to the snack shack. But then, as Yugoslavia fell apart in the 1990s, Mostar itself became embroiled in war. Rick: So the Serbian Republic here in Bosnia-Herzegovina is Serbian Orthodox. Maya: That would be it. So in Orthodox tradition, it symbolizes resurrection. It's essential to bring sunscreen, a hat, and water. But today, strolling the ramparts, it's clear: The panorama is a big part of the town's appeal. So on the ceiling you can see really nice Roman carvings. The original octagonal structure was Diocletian's elaborate mausoleum, built in the fourth century. Nearby a grand underground hallway now used as a shopping arcade leads to Diocletian's vestibule. We start south in Dubrovnik, sail along the Dalmatian Coast, stopping at Korula and Hvar en route to Split. For most visitors, the walk in my guidebook provides enough details; for more in-depth information, you could join a walking tour or hire a guide. Saleswoman: Dobar dan
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